“Could it really be?” I thought during one of my routine Yelp rounds a couple of months ago. People were submitting reviews on a new restaurant called Karma
Indian Cuisine.
Indian food in Fargo has left the ranks of single-option
cuisines (like pho or African food) and joined the two-option tier (i.e. Greek
food). While eating through
Australia on an episode of No Reservations, Anthony Bourdain states that as neighborhoods
diversify, the food can only get
better. The opening of Fargo’s
second Indian restaurant is a promising sign of a diversifying food scene.
Last week, I read It’s That Good: New Indian Restaurant, an enthusiastic review of Karma published in The High Plains Reader. This review
instigated our Friday date night at Karma.
Karma is located inside the dingy Vista Inn & Suites that
sits in a godforsaken armpit of land near Interstate 94. I’ve often driven by the Vista, noticing
its advertisement as a hotel, lounge, and casino. In Fargo, there are many of these types of establishments that also call themselves casinos. I'm not sure how "casino" is technically defined, but I'm pretty sure it doesn't necessarily involve the glittering lights of Vegas.
We found Karma's small sign and navigated our way into the Vista Inn. Enter Karma on your first door to the left. It's a tiny restaurant with dark wood decor. And on this hot evening, its air
conditioning was struggling. We
were promptly greeted and seated by a gentleman who immediately poured us ice
water. Our server seemed to be the
front of the house’s one-man-show.
As the evening became busier, he somehow managed to keep up as the
greeter, server, and busser.
We ordered an appetizer of Cut Mirchi (fried banana
peppers), a mango lassi, and our usual favorites of chicken tikka masala, daal,
and bindi do piazza (okra) along with garlic naan and a side of raita. Of course, we requested everything to
be spicy hot.
Before our appetizer arrived, we were treated to a small
plate of onion pakora.
The onion pakora were
crispy, non-greasy, and seasoned with a spiced salt. We dunked them into mint and tamarind sauces.
The fried banana peppers were also fried equally well and
perfectly salted. Unfortunately, they
turned out to be the spiciest item we tasted that evening.
Our entrees arrived soon after. Karma’s daily daal offering varied from the typical smooth, yellow daal.
This
version was thick and creamy and we enjoyed the texture provided by two types
of beans.
The chicken tikka masala contained large chunks of white meat chicken in a sauce that tasted fine but lacked intensity.
The chicken tikka masala contained large chunks of white meat chicken in a sauce that tasted fine but lacked intensity.
The Binda do piazza’s best asset was the freshness of its
vegetables and inclusion of lots of okra.
The vegetables were cooked long just long enough to be tender yet
crisp.
We love okra’s natural sweetness and crunch. The sauce was, again, fine, but lacking the depth we hoped for.
Karma manages to trump Passage To India’s garlic naan in regards to price.
We love okra’s natural sweetness and crunch. The sauce was, again, fine, but lacking the depth we hoped for.
Karma manages to trump Passage To India’s garlic naan in regards to price.
The mango lassi was infused with a heavy dose of
cardamom. A scent of cardamom
would have been ideal, but the lassi was a little gritty with the spice. The lassi was refreshing, but I prefer
Passage’s tarter version, sans the heavy cardamom.
In summary, the prices are mind boggling low. We ordered an embarrassing amount of
food that totaled about $40, plus tip.
The same bill would have been significantly higher at Passage to
India. The fried appetizers were solid; nicely seasoned and complimented by chutneys. We also enjoyed Karma’s use of fresh ingredients and garlic naan. I'm intrigued by two of Karma's naan offerings filled with ground lamb, or raisins, nuts, and cheese.
While we felt everything was cooked well, the entrees tasted a little mild and, dare I say, bland, for our preferences. We had requested the entrees spicy, but
felt the heat level was mild. The
okra and daal bordered on under-salted.
When comparing entrees, side-by-side, we prefer Passage To India’s intensely rich gravies that surpass much of what I’ve tried in the Twin Cities. Even Passage’s baseline heat level has kick
and when we request extra spicy, they deliver.
We'll probably lean towards shelling out more money for the flavors and heat level we crave, but don't take our word for it. Try both options for yourself and reach your own conclusions.
Bask in the fact that Fargo now offers two Indian dining possibilities.




Hi Jeni, great blog!
ReplyDeleteNext time you're on the I-94 hellscape, you could make a stop in my hometown, Rothsay (exit 38). Skip the truck stop (during the 4 yrs I waitressed there it was great but it's no longer good), skip the bar, and head to Ole & Lena's pizzeria. Although I can't fully recommend anything on the menu, the hotdish pizza is at least a good novelty item! I'm mostly veg, so i havent tried it, but the restaurant is cute and you must stop and visit the Prairie Chicken along the interstate. You'll note it was built by my grandpa, Art Fosse!
Love your blog and reading about my turf from a fresh perspective!
Thank you Ali! We'll try to stop by Ole & Lena's during oneof our trips. I love roadtrip stops!
ReplyDeleteNew Indian restaurant opened up called India palace on 13th ave
ReplyDelete